Cataloochee Valley, North Carolina, U.S.A.
Cataloochee Valley is one of the most remote parts of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and is nestled among some of the most rugged mountains in the southeastern United States.
In the early 1800’s, homesteaders settled here and the community flourished until the US Government started buying up the land to create a new national park in 1928. Several of the early settlers’ buildings have been preserved and restored and they make for a picturesque landscape.
We started our day bright and early because not only were we trying to beat the crowds, we had to make sure we could claim a parking spot on the tiny parking lot. We had brought our breakfast sandwiches and suddenly, while I was chewing on a piece of bacon, out of the corner of my eye, extremely close to the car, I saw a female elk strolling by. I read about these reintroduced animals but I did not expect to see them so up close!
In Cataloochee, elk were hunted to extinction and in 2001, the National Park Service reintroduced 25 of these large deer. The following year 24 more were added. Since then, they have flourished and today, more than 150 elk roam the park’s woods and valleys.
Soon we saw an entire herd walking by our car. We quickly strapped on our hiking boots so we could check out where they were headed. A large sign warned visitors to keep at a distance and upon arriving at a beautiful meadow, we immediately noticed why. A large bull was viciously protecting its harem and the animal did not seem to care whether one was a young buck or a human.
To announce its presence, it first made a low growling sound which them evolved into a high pitched scream. This bugling made it clear that mating season had started!
Bordering the meadow, stood an idyllic old schoolhouse. I imagined myself being the teacher in this one-room schoolhouse, hauling wood in the morning to warm up the classroom and filling up the ink pots. It must have been tough to teach those multiple grades at the same time too!
From here we headed to the Little Cataloochee trailhead to start our hike. We started out on the Pretty Hollow Gap trail which followed a beautiful cascading stream.
“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.”
After about a mile, we reached the crossing with the Little Cataloochee Trail. Immediately we started to climb and after a few minutes all we could still hear were the leaves crunching underneath our boots and the singing of the birds. In the grass and under the trees grew many mushrooms. Some had interesting colors and funny shapes and their presence clearly indicated that fall season had started.
After a series of creek crossings, we started to think we missed a turn and were on the wrong path. Yes, we were still climbing and the distance on the map indicated that we should have reached the first ruin by now. Finally, after another mile of ascending, we noticed the remnants of the Messer Homestead! If Bert wouldn’t have pointed it out to me I would have totally missed it. That’s how hidden and overgrown the walls were!
In a clearing, on a steep part of the trail, we heard a lot of commotion. Many birds weer making a racket and needless to say, Bert had to try and identify the little fellows. He was banking on seeing a few lifers on this hike and bingo! He spotted the Worm Eating Warbler, Hooded Warbler, and Grey Cheeked Thrush. He was ecstatic!
The climb up was long and I was starting to feel tired. Needless to say I was relieved when we reached the top of the ridge that separates Big and Little Cataloochee Valley. But my happiness was short lived when I saw the switchbacks of the steep descend because that meant I had to climb back up later!
Once down though, we were treated to the peaceful and charming area which used to be owned by Dan Cook. The bench behind his restored cabin was the ideal place to enjoy a snack.
Homesteader Dan Cook was known as a master carpenter and built several structures in the valley. Shortly after settling in Little Cataloochee however, he was called to war and his wife was left to raise the children and tend the farm.
It was another mile and a half or so on a wider path before we reached the picturesque Cataloochee Baptist Church, perched on top of a hill.
The in 1889 built bright white structure stunningly shined in the sunshine. There was something compelling about this place.
The quaint interior housed flawlessly white benches placed around a wood burning stove and a pulpit. It was easy to imagine the idyllic life of these settlers but that illusion lasted only briefly once we visited the graveyard behind the church.
The gravestones showed that people died astonishingly young and instead of a peaceful and charming life, these homesteaders led a rough and harsh existence. Many of the headstones commemorated babies.
Behind the church stood a bunch of benches and it was the ideal spot to eat lunch Bert whipped up a ham, egg and cheese sandwich and it was very welcoming. In fact, I was famished!
It was time to return and start the ascend back up to the Noland Divide. In a clearing Bert saw a mixed flock of birds and wanted to identify the different species. Because I am a slowpoke walking uphill, I continued the climb. Suddenly, I heard twigs breaking behind me and I had this unsettling feeling someone or rather something was following me. Waiting for Bert was not a good idea, neither was running so I simply walked on and started singing a song. I didn’t want to startle the animal and that way it was notified of my presence. And with my singing skills, anything would walk the other way! Once Bert caught up, he told me he saw a black bear right behind me hiding behind a tree! Yikes! Good thing I kept calm!
The walk back was long and tiring. Hiking the trail took longer than we expected especially since our recourses had the mileage wrong. By the time we reached the car, we were both exhausted. But it was a beautiful day and despite the strenuous activity, we both felt relaxed and very satisfied.